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This original pattern is ©2004 by Kim Salazar. Please see the copyright note
at the end of the pattern.
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Notes
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A while ago, I compiled an extensive collection of charted
embroidery and needlework designs from pre-1600 sources. Unfortunately, the
publisher appears to have absconded, and The New Carolingian Modelbook is now
hard to come by. The graphed designs it features come largely from printed pattern
books published in Italy, France and Germany. Although the knotwork in this panel
design makes it look vaguely Celtic, in fact this particular one first appeared
in Venice. The book's title begins "Opera Noua composta per dominco da Sera
detto il Francoisino," and was issued by the printing workshop of Matteo
Pagan and Guliemo da Fontaneto in 1546.
To knit this up, I used Joie de Vivre Farm's Mostly-Merino.
This small-producer yarn is a soft, single ply construction hand spun/hand dyed
fingering weight Merino/Corriedale wool blend. I used less than one skein of each of my two colors - about an
ounce and a quarter of my main color, and a bit more than three quarters of an ounce
of my contrasting color. That works out to approximately 160 yards (146m) of dark green,
and about 100 yards (91m) of gold. Other good choices include
Shetland Spindrift,
Rowanspun 4-ply
or other similar light-weight 100% wool yarns usually used for
stranded work. Because this ends up being blocked to shape, I recommend avoiding
superwash wool and machine washable blended fiber sock yarns.
Knot a Hat is reversable, with a stranded pattern on the outside, and plain stripes on the inside.
It's extra-thick and double-sided, but not double knit. It's knit twice as wide as the
final dimension, then folded up along the purl ridges and seamed to completely encapsulate
the stranded floats. Because the floats are completely covered, there really is no need to strand
them in or twine them as you go along. I used Kitchener grafting to eliminate any annoying
seam ridges on the inside.
I chose to knit this piece up using the two circulars method. It can also be worked on one
shorter 16-inch circular needle, or on a set of double-pointed needles. Your choice.
Also, picking up a large number of stitches along the back ridge of a crocheted chain at
this gauge can be a challenge. Instead, I crocheted my provisional stitches right onto
my working knitting needle. Once I had the correct number on, I was ready to go!
Skills required: Stranded knitting; following a complex long-repeat charted design;
provisional crochet chain cast-on, preferably worked directly onto the knitting needle;
Kitchener grafting. The chart that
accompanies this pattern is provided in Adobe Acrobat format. Acrobat
Reader can be obtained here at no cost.
A final note: this pattern was named by my daughters who noted that not only was it
only a headband and not a hat, it also featured the prominent knot motif.
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Materials
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- US #4 (3.5mm) needles or size needed to achieve gauge.
- Two colors of Joie de Vivre Mostly Merino fingering weight yarn- 2 ounces/250 yards (57g/228m) (see above for notes on quantity)
- US#0 (2mm) needles - your choice of two 24- or 29-inch long circulars, one 16-inch long circular, or a set of 5 double points
- Scrap yarn or cotton string for workign provisional cast-on
- Extra circular needle for holding stitches from provisional cast-on during final grafting
- Crochet hook for working provisional cast-on. Exact size is unimportant, but I used a US #C - about 2.75mm
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- Two stitch markers if using one shorter circular needle
- Tapestry needle for grafting and weaving in the ends
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Gauge and Measurements
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Approximately 15 stitches = 2 inches (5cm) measured over stranded knitting
Approximate finished dimensions: Before blocking, about 3.9 inches wide by 21 inches in diameter.
Blocked to a final measurement of around 3.75 inches wide by 22 inches in diameter
(will stretch to fit head circumference of up to 23 inches) |
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Pattern
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Using provisional cast-on, work 156 stitches directly on to the knitting needle,
use a crochet hook and scrap yarn or string. Switch to main color. If you are
knitting in the round on a single short circular needle, knit 78 stitches,
then place a marker, knit the remaining 78 stitches, place another marker.
If you are using two longer circulars, use the first circular to knit the
first 78 stitches, use the second to knit the second 78 stitches.
If you are using a set of five double points, knit 39 stitches with the first DPN;
39 stitches with the second DPN; 39 stitches with the third DPN, and 39 stitches
with the fourth DPN.
Knit two full rounds using main color
Purl two full rounds using main color.
Work from the accompanying chart.
You will repeat the 78-stitch chart two times around the headband.
Please note that the first column is duplicated on the chart (shown in green). It
doesn't count towards the 78-stitch repeat count, and is included here just as
an aid to help you move from repeat to repeat.
If you are using one shorter circular needle, work one repeat of the
chart between marker A and marker B; and another between marker B and marker A.
If you are using two longer circulars, work one full repeat of the chart on each circular.
If you are using DPNs, treat needles one and two as a single unit - work one full
repeat of the chart over them. Treat needles three and four as a single unit,
and work the second repeat of the chart over them.
After you complete the chart, work as follows:
Purl two rounds in the main color
Knit two rounds in the main color.
(Knit four rounds in the contrasting color, knit four rounds in the main color)4x
Knit three rounds in the contrasting color.
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Finishing
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Using the contrasting color, Kitchener graft the live stitches to those stowed
away in your provisional cast-on. End off any yarn ends that still protrude. The round of
grafting will complete the final four-row stripe.
Find something round of a suitable size. I chose a large dinner plate. Wash (or just wet)
your piece thoroughly. If it's sopping, wrap it in a towel and squeeze gently to remove
excess water, but avoid stretching, wringing or twisting. Stretch the headband around your
plate or other form, and let it air dry by itself (no fans, direct sun, or dehumidifiers are needed).
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