This original pattern is ©1997, 1998 and 2001 by Kim Salazar (please see the copyright note
at the end of the pattern). It was originally shared with the
KnitList - (a knitting-oriented mailing list)
shortly before Morgan was born. The pattern is the same, but charts for working the
motifs and edging have been added.
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Notes
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The Mountain Laurel Counterpane looks like a field of solidly knit star-shaped flowers floating
on a lacy background. In between the petals are triangles of seed stitch (mostly obscured, but leaving
a nice contrasting texture) pierced by 4-eyelet diamonds.
The main motif is knit in the round on double pointed needles. I started out with three 6-inch ones
(plus one to knit with) - two petal repeats per needle. After Row 11 I switched to six (plus one) so that
each petal repeat was on its own needle. Eventually I found a set of 10-inch long dpns, and went back to
using 4 of these longer needles. Those who aren't as dpn-happy as I am might want to use the smallest
size circular after row 11 or so. The half-hex and triangle filler pieces square the edges, and are knit
on single points, as is the coordinating cable border.
For my crib-size counterpane (around 36 x 48 inches) I made 25 hexagon units; 6 half-hexagon units; and 6
edge triangles. I tried not to start new balls of yarn midway through any one motif. Instead, if I didn't
think I could finish a motif out of the current ball, I put that ball aside to use for the edging, and
began the next motif with a fresh skein.
As each motif was completed, I ended off the cast on tail, making sure to pull in the center stitches so
that I had no center hole. You could end off without drawing in the center hole if you like the look.
I left the cast off tail very long - about two feet long. When the time came to sew the motifs together,
I used these tails to do it. This minimized the number of ends I had to work in later.
The pattern was named from the central flower's resemblance to the blossoms of Mountain Laurel.
I did my pattern drafting and trials in white just like the shrub's flowers, but fell in love with this
deep crimson at the yarn store. Which is why Morgan's blanket is red.
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Materials
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- US #5 - one set of 4 10-inch long dpns OR seven 6-inch long dpns
- US #5 - one set single points, any length OR a couple of dpns from one of the dpn sets above.
- Yarn needle for sewing motifs together.
- Straight pins and a blocking surface (an ironing board works well)
- For crib-size counterpane (36 x 48 inches) I used approximately 1,800 yards of worsted weight cotton yarn.
That's about 17 skeins of Tahki Cotton Classic 100% cotton mercerized yarn (1.75oz/50g; 108 yds/100m per skein;
manufacturer's suggested gauge of 5 st = 1 inch on US #6)
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Gauge
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| Approx 6 st = 1 inch in stockinette (note that this is difficult to measure because of the lace-like
quality of the hexagon pattern. Note that this is a blanket and not a fitted garment, so exact gauge
isn't mandatory. But if you deviate significantly from the suggested gauge remember that your yarn
consumption may vary from mine, and your project may end up using more (or less) than mine. |
Special Instructions
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| These abbreviations and symbols are used in this pattern. |
| Right Side |
Wrong Side |
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K - Knit |
Purl |
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P - Purl |
Knit |
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YO - Yarn over (make an eyelet increase by laying the yarn on top of the needle) |
Yarn over |
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M1 - Knit into the back of the bar between the stitch just knit and the next one to be knit.
Note: Any increase that doesn't produce an eyelet may be substituted |
Purl into the back of hte bar between the stitch just knit and hte next one to be knit. |
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KPK - K1, P1, K1 into the next stitch. |
P1, K1, P1 into the next stitch. |
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K2tog - Knit two stitches together |
Purl two stitches together. |
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SSK - Slip one stitch knitwise; slip 1 stitch purlwise. Return both stitches to the other
needle, then knit them together. This forms a decrease equivalent to K2tog, but slanted
in the other direction. |
Purl two stitches together through the back of the loop. |
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K1B - Knit into the back of the next stitch |
Purl into the back of the next stitch. |
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P1B - Purl into the back of the next stitch |
Knit into the back of the next stitch. |
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S1-K2tog-PSSO - Slip one stitch knitwise. Knit the next two stitches together. Pass
the slipped stitch over |
S1 with yarn in front, P2 together through the back of the loop, then pass the slipped stitch over the p2tog. |
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S1 - Slip one stitch as if to knit |
Slip one stitch as if to purl |
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P2togB - Purl two stitches together through the back of the loop. (Arguably the most
awkward single stitch in all of hand knitting) |
SSK (see above). |
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(YO)2x - loop the yarn around the working needle twice (two YOs in a row). On the next row
treat each of the two loops as a stitch. |
(YO)2x |
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C3B - Slip three stitches to a cable needle. Hold them at the back of the work. Knit the
next three stitches. Then knit the three stitches from the cable needle. |
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C3F - Slip three stitches to a cable needle. Hold them in the front of the work. Knit
the next three stitches. Then knit the three stitches from the cable needle. |
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Full Hexagon Motif
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Chart |
Preparation - Cast on 6 stitches - 2 on each of three needles. Join.
Knit one round.
Note: Repeat each *unit* of Rows 1-X six times around the row - once for each petal |
| Row 1 |
*K1, M1, K1, M1* |
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| Row 2 |
Knit [You should have 12 stitches total now] |
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| Row 3 |
*(YO, K1B, YO, K1B)2x* |
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| Row 4 |
Knit |
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| Row 5 | *K1, KPK, K2* |
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| Row 6 | Knit |
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| Row 7 | *K2, KPK, K3* |
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| Row 8 | Knit |
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| Row 9 | *K3, KPK, K4* |
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| Row 10 | Knit |
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| Row 11 | *K4, KPK, K5* |
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| Row 12 | Knit (This is the row I used to switch from 3 to 6 needles) |
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| Row 13 | *YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K1B* |
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| Row 14 | *K11, K1B* |
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| Row 15 | *YO, P1, YO, SSK, K5, K2tog, YO, P1, YO, K1B* |
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| Row 16 | *P1, K1, P1, K7, P1, K1, P1, K1B* |
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| Row 17 | *YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, K1B* |
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| Row 18 | *K1, P1, YO, SSK, K7, P1, YO, SSK, K1, K1B* |
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| Row 19 | *YO, P1, K3, P1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, P1, K3, P1, YO, K1B* |
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| Row 20 | *P1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, P1, K3, P1, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, P1, K1B* |
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| Row 21 | *YO, K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, YO, S1-K2tog-PSSO, YO, K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, YO, K1B* |
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| Row 22 | *K1, P1, K1, P1, YO, K2tog, (K1, P1)4x, YO, K2tog, K1, P1, K1, K1B* |
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| Row 23 | *YO, (P1, K1)9x, P1, YO, K1B* |
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| Bind off loosely knitwise |
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Half Hexagon Motif
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Chart |
Preparation - Cast on 4 stitches, purl one row.
Note: Unlike the Hexagon motif (knit in the round), this companion piece is knit flat on two needles |
| Row 1 |
K1, (K1, M1)3x |
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| Row 2 |
Purl [7 stitches total now] |
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| Row 3 |
K1, (YO, K1B)6x |
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| Row 4 |
Purl [13 stitches total] |
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| Row 5 | K1, (K1, KPK, K2)3x |
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| Row 6 | Purl |
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| Row 7 | K1, (K2, KPK, K3)3x |
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| Row 8 | Purl |
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| Row 9 | K1, (K3, KPK, K4)3x |
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| Row 10 | Purl |
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| Row 11 | K1, (K4, KPK, K5)3x |
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| Row 12 | Purl |
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| Row 13 | K1B, (YO, SSK, K7, K2tog, YO, K1B)3x |
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| Row 14 | (P1B, P11)3x, P1B |
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| Row 15 | K1B, (YO, P1, YO, SSK, K5, K2tog, YO, P1, YO, K1B)3x |
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| Row 16 | (P1B, K1, P1, K1, P7, K1, P1, K1)3x, P1B |
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| Row 17 | K1B, (YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, SSK, K3, K2tog, YO, K1, P1, K1, YO, K1B)3x |
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| Row 18 | (P1B, P1, P2togB, YO, K1, P7, P2togB, YO, K1, P1)3x, P1B |
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| Row 19 | K1B (YO, P1, K3, P1, YO, SSK, K1, K2tog, YO, P1, K3, P1, YO, K1B)3x |
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| Row 20 | (P1B, K1, P2togB, YO, P1, YO, P2tog, K1, P3, K1, P2tog B, YO, P1, YO, P2tog, K1)3x, P1B |
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| Row 21 | K1B (YO, K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, YO, S1-K2tog-PSSO, YO, K1, P1, K3, P1, K1, YO, K1B)3x |
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| Row 22 | [P1B, P1, K1, P1, P2togB, YO (K1, P1)4x, P2togB, YO, (K1, P1)2x]3x, P1B |
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| Row 23 | K1B [YO, (P1, K1)9x, P1, YO, K1B]3x |
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| | Bind off loosely purlwise |
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Edge Triangle
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Preparation - Cast on one stitch.
Note: This companion piece is knit flat on two needles |
| Row 1 |
YO, K1, YO |
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| Row 2 |
K3 |
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| Row 3 |
(YO, K1,)3x, YO |
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| Row 4 |
K2, (P1, K1)2x, K1 |
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| Row 5 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)2x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 6 | K2, (P1, K1)4x, K1 |
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| Row 7 | YO, K1, YO, (K1,P1)4x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 8 | K2, (P1, K1)6x, K1 |
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| Row 9 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)3x YO, SSK, (K1,P1)2x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 10 | K2, (P1, K1)8x, K1 |
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| Row 11 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)3x, K2tog, YO, K1, YO, SSK, (P1, K1)3x, YO, K1, YO |
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| Row 12 | K2, (P1, K1)10x, K1 |
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| Row 13 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)5x, YO, SSK, (K1, P1)4x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 14 | K2, (P1, K1)12x, K1 |
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| Row 15 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)12x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 16 | K2, (P1, K1)14x, K1 |
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| Row 17 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)14x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 18 | K2, (P1, K1)16x, K1 |
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| Row 19 | YO, K1, YO, (K1, P1)16x, (K1, YO)2x |
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| Row 20 | K2, (P1, K1)18x, K1 |
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| | Bind off loosely knitwise |
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Lacy Braid and Moss Zig-Zag Border
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Preparation - Cast on 21 stitches. Purl one row.
Note: On Row 3, take care not to drop the YO that immediately precedes
the cable cross - it's prone to escape while the cable is being formed. |
| Row 1 |
S1, (SSK, YO)2x, K9, YO, K2tog, K1, [(YO)2x, K2tog]2x |
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| Row 2 |
S1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K1, P15, K1 |
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| Row 3 |
S1, (SSK, YO)2x, C3B, K3, YO, K2tog, K3, [(YO)2x, K2tog]2x |
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| Row 4 |
S1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K3, P15, K1 |
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| Row 5 | S1, (SSK, YO)2x, K9, YO, K2tog, K5, [(YO)2x, K2tog]2x |
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| Row 6 | S1, K1, P1, K2, P1, K5, P15, K1 |
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| Row 7 | S1, (SSK, YO)2x, K3, C3F, YO, K3tog, K7 [(YO)2x, K2tog]2x |
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| Row 8 | Bind off 8 knitwise, K4, P15, K1 |
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| | Repeat Rows 1-8 until the desired length is achieved. Bind off loosely knitwise. |
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Assembly
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As I finished the motifs I blocked them out them by dampening them and then pinning them out at full
stretch on an ironing board, on which I had drawn a hexagon of my target size. I used LOTS of pins to keep
the edges as straight as possible. After the units were blocked and dry, I sewed them on to my
ever-growing blanket (using the super long tails). The motifs were sewn together on a stitch-for-stitch basis. and were laid out
like this.
I didn't measure the yardage of the border lace trim because I sewed it on foot by foot as I completed it,
without blocking it first. I started attaching it just past a corner and sewed it on at a ratio of 2
edging border stitches to every 3 blanket body stitches. I did a lot of gathering at the corner hex points
to bring the edging smoothing around without puckering. When I got all the way around the blanket,
I fudged the stitching-on ratio in the final corner so that my 8-row repeat came out even, then grafted
the last row to the first - making a mostly invisible join.
After the whole thing was assembled and the remaining dangling ends darned in, I wet down the counterpane and
pinned it out for a final blocking, making sure that all the lace edging points were nicely splayed out.
(I needn't have bothered with this step - the points won't stay stiff and triangular without starching).
For a final touch, on cable area of the last several inches of edging that was to be sewn to the final corner,
instead of doing three of the cable twists, I knit the normally cabled stitches in flat stockinette. After the
rest of the blanket was finished, I cut a length of my yarn, and using two plies instead of all four,
embroidered my initials and the year on the plain knit bit using a whipped chain stitch.
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